A carefree breeze blows across the rooftops of Paris—or, more precisely, those installed in the nave of the Grand Palais for the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear show. With zinc surfaces, walkways, chimney pots and windows opening to the sky, the rooftops are typical of the fashion capital and rue Cambon. “The roofs of Paris remind me of the atmosphere of the Nouvelle Vague. I saw silhouettes walking on the roofs.

I thought about Kristen Stewart playing Jean Seberg and all the actresses Gabrielle Chanel dressed at that time,” says Virginie Viard, Artistic Director of Fashion Collections.

Today, this ethereal allure is accessorized with sandals that are flat and two-tone or that feature jeweled or strass-embellished straps. With the occasional little hat, the silhouette is light and fluid. The materials are supple, allowing total freedom of movement. Designed for day and night, the collection plays with the simplicity and balance of volume. Jackets with flounced collars and cuffs, plus short skirts, reinterpret the tweed suit. Capri pants and denim jackets with ruffles join the dance across the rooftops. Pure white little coats finished with braid are paired with voluminous skirts and black-and-white tweed tops. Revisited is the straight-cut masculine tweed jacket, transformed into playsuits, jumpsuits or a little dress with a flared skirt.

Long coats come in tweed or wool crępe, while a striped top and knotted shirt add masculine-feminine accents. Satin, silk faille and taffeta complement the short, wraparound or asymmetric skirts, always worn high on the waist. Often with petticoats and organza, the skirts move freely. Their charm is enhanced with ruffled tops and balloon-sleeved blouses, delicately pleated and embellished with little bows or raffia and organza petals. The transparent fabrics reveal the breathtaking work of the ateliers that constructed the dresses and their handkerchief hems.

Tiers of printed chiffon, organza, feathers and raffia fringes add structure to the delicate tops and long skirts. Embroidered around the collar with matte-red sequins, the anthracite chiffon dresses are printed with Parisian facades. Their flat pleats appear ready to float away. A series of skirts, jackets and long dresses passes by in dusk-toned silk twill, with braids and trimmings in two-tone grosgrain.